Marc Jacobs Shines

February 15th, 2013 by Hotel Fashionland received Comments Off


When Marc Jacobs referred to the “weather project” after his show on Thursday night, I thought he meant the weather, which has been pretty lousy of late. But he meant The Weather Project, a 2003 installation at the Tate Modern by the artist Olafur Eliasson. I had to look it up, but that’s okay. Mr. Eliasson’s big artificial sun — 18,000 watts of sodium-yellow street light bulbs — explained a lot.


For his fall show at the New York State Armory, Mr. Jacobs put up a huge illuminated circle that, like Mr. Eliasson’s “sun,” sent out a yellow, decidedly unflattering light. Guests’ clothes looked colorless — as in a half-tone world — and people looked older, too, as if a little aged by the weather, or by Fashion Week. Tired faces were certainly the last thing anyone wanted to see, especially one’s own. “It’s just about simple clothes — the ones that give us pleasure,” said Mr. Jacobs, who was wearing bronze-brown pajamas. “I mean, it’s a no-brainer.”


Weather dominates people’s lives and daily conversations, and that was a point of the Tate installation, among others. The rest of Mr. Jacobs’ set included a huge circle platform, evoking empty space and also evolution (in the view of one guest, who worried about getting a migraine from the light). The models walked slowly around the edge of the platform, then repeated the parade. -

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As Mr. Jacobs said, the clothes were simple—about the plainest, easiest clothes he has done in some time. Brown tones seemed to dominate the collection, with gray, bronze and deep rose. The clothes included neat A-line jackets and plush coats, tweed-print dresses in what looked like a synthetic, cozy sweaters with brown checked briefs (a ubiquitous style), pajamas, and some smashing evening dresses in sequins and liquid satin.

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