Halters and asymmetrical hemlines are among the ideas Stefano Pilati is contributing to the Spring 2011 season, but his YSL show, held at the neoclassical masterpiece hôtel Salomon de Rothschild, was much more than the sum of its silhouettes, palette, and textures.

Pilati is a deeply pensive designer, and as his models paraded through the hotel particulier, room by room, with raspberry lips and twisted coifs, they reminded a world-weary crowd what great clothes look and feel like. Beginning with a trim white trench, topped off with a twisted scaf around the neck.

Pilati unleashed a lightweight sleeveless wool jumpsuit, an orange silk blouse paired with an A-length skirt and sophisticated ’40s-style dresses in printed silk chiffon.

Narrow black belts, made of suede and trimmed in gold, cinched many looks, including some fabulously textured silks that made their way into Pilati’s riffs on suiting.

The final looks, Pilati-esque interpretations of le smoking, were as accomplished as those pioneered by the house’s namesake. – www.dailyfrontrow.com

Johnatan Newhouse and Kanye West – Front Row

Posted under: Fashion

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